Additional Notes on Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark ii for Night Street Photography

12mm f/2.0; ISO 3200; 1/15th second; panorama from two frames.
A lot of detail has been pushed here, and the grain shows.  More fastidious processing could reduce that for printing.

I've had very little time to get out with the E-M5 Mark ii, but did carry it along for some nighttime walks around my part of the city.  So far, the results have all been positive.  I'd have to characterize it as "sufficient," which is just fine.

ISO 3200, 75mm (150mm equivalent), f/1.8, 1/15th second.
Four tries were required to get a steady shot, but this is pretty impressive for 1/15th second at that magnification.

I've spent a great deal of time doing night street photography with the Nikon D700 and D600, and I've used three general types of lenses:  flexible zooms that are relatively light and compact (70-300VR, 28-300VR); pro zooms that are superb, but heavy (70-200/2.8 VR ii, 70-200/4 <- my all-time favorite lens on any camera); and the amazing Nikon f/1.8 primes, which are both light/compact and have superb optical quality (but no VR).

ISO 3200; 12mm; f/2.8; 1/40th second.
The white balance and colors had to be pushed significantly to produce the perceived colors in real life.  There was plenty of color latitude in the RAW file to avoid any odd artifacts, and noise was readily controllable without losing too much detail.

The zooms offer great flexibility and VR, which is at least partially very valuable for night shooting.  But, they are all heavy and awkward to take on trips and lug around, and they are just plain socially unacceptable for a lot of evening events if other people are along.  Also, the consumer-type zooms always compromise image quality, and I'm constantly disappointed when I can't take advantage of an amazing scene or light.  The very best overall compromise is the amazing 70-200/4, but f/4 still leaves me at ISO 3200+ much of the time unless I'm looking to blur subject motion (generally not my style).

ISO 3200; 12mm, f/4.5; 1/20th second.
The dynamic range was ridiculous, but as metered, the highlights were recoverable, and the shadows could be brought up enough to make a pleasing rendition.

The only physically satisfying package is the f/1.8 primes, and they are optically fantastic. But, with no VR, I find that I'm realistically sitting at ISO 6400 much of the time, and at ISO 6400, the dynamic range of even the best FX sensors is greatly reduced (you lose a stop of DR for every stop in ISO above ISO 400 on the D600, for example, so almost 4 stops down at ISO 6400).

Nikon D600; ISO 6400; 85mm, f/2.8; 1/40th second.
For comparison, this is a typical night shot with the D600.  Because of the lack of VR on the beautiful 85/1.8G prime, and in order to avoid subject motion, the shutter speed is moderately high, yet still pushing my handheld limit, dictating ISO 6400.  Even on the full-frame D600, the dynamic range is suffering badly, and the post processing was very tough on this one.

Note that carrying a tripod is mostly too restrictive to take out every evening.  I do carry a good travel tripod (1542T), but I would mostly use that for very intentional and planned cityscapes or shooting from a hotel, etc.  If you have a tripod, basically every camera is good for night shooting.  :)

Nikon D600; 85mm, f/8; 15 seconds.
This is a typical long exposure night shot on tripod, which could be taken with almost any camera with manual controls.  I'm not worried about this use case.  :)

The dynamics are quite different with the E-M5 ii m43 and my Olympus f/1.8 primes.  IBIS opens the door to much longer handheld exposures when I'm willing to include subject motion blur (or there is nothing moving).  f/1.8 is pretty bright, exceeded only by heroically expensive (and mostly huge) lenses that are brighter, and I can even get 75mm (150mm equivalent) at f/1.8 in a tiny package! Yes, I'm still sitting at ISO 3200 (the threshold I've currently adopted), but the (reduced) DR feels about as restrictive as the D700 (not quite as good as the D600), so it is manageable -- not great; not horrible.

ISO 3200; 75mm; f/1.8; 1/50th second.
IBIS made a handheld shot that I would never try at this magnification on my D600.  The 75/1.8 allowed for a DoF that almost disappeared the chainlink fence in the foreground.

Handling and auto-focus are a pleasant surprise. The EVF is much better at night than an optical viewfinder, and AF, well, just works. Any AF system is going to have problems in the dark, but the E-M5 ii seems at least as good as my DSLRs. Manual override with focus peaking works great in low light since visibility of the EVF is so great.

ISO 1000; 12mm; f/3.5; 1/40th second.
The wide DR was recoverable nicely with basic Lightroom sliders.

For post-processing, the Olympus files feel pretty good.  Up to ISO 3200, the shadows are fairly clean, and I can pull out enough micro-contrast.  Generally, metering seems to protect the highlights well; perhaps with practice, I can ETTR a bit more.  Frankly, I have not been obsessing over histograms at capture time.  Metering on the D600 was a delight, and it seems just as good on the E-M5 ii.  Color looks good and is easy to grade (better than with Nikon NEFs when using Adobe ACR or LR, but Adobe always does relatively poorly with Nikon RAW files since they don't cooperate).

Additional Thoughts on the OM-D E-M5 Mark ii Flash

I was interested in testing and familiarizing myself with the E-M5 Mark ii included flash, even though I would always use manual off-camera flash for any serious work, which obviously wouldn't be any problem.  Physically, the flash is fantastic due to its tiny size, but most importantly, the tilt/swivel head allows it to be pointed in any direction up or down, left or right, and fully backwards.  Could this little flash actually provide a usable off-access light source like a full-size DSLR flash?

My first obstacle was to get Flash to turn on in other than iAUTO mode.  Even though the flash was recognized, it was disabled in PASM modes and the setting to change flash modes and enable flash could not even be invoked.  I was trying to guess what setting was precluding the use of flash.  HDR?  No.  High res mode?  No.  Finally (and bafflingly) I discovered that you MUST be in single exposure, non-motor drive mode.  This is a really silly restriction and an unfortunate choice.  Olympus could either have slowed down the frame rate or just let flash fail to go off if the capacitor could not recharge in time.  Oh well... Not a showstopper.

I decided to test the Fill Flash setting for a small object, in this case the amazing Olympus 75mm f/1.8 lens amidst the clutter of my desk.  Here is a sequence of images as I progressed through the possible flash usage modes.

All photos are ISO 200, Aperture Priority mode, f/2.5, 45mm f/1.8 Olympus lens.  RAW files imported into Lightroom CC with no adjustments.

No flash; 1/6th second.
Nicely exposed.  Thank you, IBIS.  1/6th second, 90mm equivalent for a closeup, and reasonably sharp without trying.  :)

Direct automatic fill flash; 1/30th second (flash longest shutter limit, which you can adjust in the settings).  Harsh, but pretty effective.  The ambient is quite underexposed because of the 1/30th shutter speed limitation.

Manual flash off a sheet of paper behind and to left, 1/64th power; 1/30th second (flash longest shutter limit, which you can adjust in the settings).  Underexposed because the 1/30th second shutter speed limit didn't provide enough ambient and the flash level was much too low to compensate. 

Manual flash off a sheet of paper behind and to left, 1/16th power; 1/30th second (flash longest shutter limit, which you can adjust in the settings).  Still underexposed because the 1/30th second shutter speed limit didn't provide enough ambient and the flash level was much too low to compensate.  I'm getting tired of chimping the flash with a manual setting, and obviously it works.  :)

Fill flash bounced off a sheet of paper above my left shoulder (automatic); -2 EV Exposure Compensation; 1/80th second (chosen by camera in Aperture Priority Mode).  The entire scene is still being lit by the flash despite the EC, but the light is softer.

Fill flash bounced off a sheet of paper just to the left of the subject like a close-in softbox (automatic); -2 EV exposure compensation to darken the background; 1/100th second (chosen by camera in Aperture Priority Mode).  The entire scene is still being lit, but the light is softer.   This was the desired look.

In summary, Exposure Compensation and Flash Exposure Compensation, as well as auto fill flash exposure control, in general, seem to work in a very similar and predictable way to Nikon's iTTL.  That is a very good thing!  The need to dig into menus to make adjustments is a little annoying, but I imaging that Olympus' full size flashes have more direct control (and reviews of them are quite good, including for off-camera TTL operation.

A DSLR user's switching perspective on the Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark ii

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark ii AF Experimentation Selfie.
75mm, ISO 200, f/2.2, 1/200th sec.

Since there are a lot of folks on this forum who, like me, are contemplating a system change to mirrorless, I thought it might help to record my experience in soul searching, researching, and purchasing an Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark ii and Olympus prime lenses.

[All images were taken on my first day walk-around with the 75mm f/1.8 Olympus prime, except where noted.  Rarely do I find my ordinary daily world to be this interesting and fruitful.]

Panorama from 5 frame.  12mm, ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/250th sec.
I saw this scene and light in the parking lot for a class on Saturdays a few days before the E-M5 ii arrived.  The next Saturday, I was able to bring the compact body and tiny 12mm f/2.0 lens in my jacket pocket, and the light was just as good.  I would never have been able to make the opportunity to get this image with my DSLR gear.

75mm, ISO 320, f/6.3, 1/160th sec.
The face recognition AF kicked in very conveniently, providing a starting point.  I then corrected it for a more inclusive DoF using manual focus override
(by just turning the focus ring).

I’ve used Nikon bodies and lenses since the early 1980s, but fell out of interest with photography from the 90s until about 2006 as film grew tiring and expensive.  Everything changes when I got a D50 in 2006, and by 2009, I became serious and obsessive with photography.  I bought a D700 the day it became available and dearly loved that camera, traveling with it a lot and accumulating a good collection of lenses.  When my D700 drowned (my fault :( ), I rejected the D800 and bought one of the first D600s for size/weight.  I retooled my lenses down to f/1.8G primes and the brilliant 70-200/4 VR, and that is the best kit I could ever imagine.  Brilliant IQ; fair size/weight – no complaints!

Say what?  75mm, ISO 160, f/2.8, 1/8000 sec.
Street photography in the broadest sense is what excites me the most.

Street and architecture photography excite me.  I’m competent with studio and people with controlled light.  I’ll do landscape when the opportunity presents itself and I enjoy it, but I have no passion for it.  I never ever do sports, wildlife, bugs, vacation snapshots, or even casual photos, in general. Video is appealing, but too much work and expense to do well.  Perhaps some day.  From a technical point of view, I like low light and I almost always use full frame equivalent telephoto (150-300mm) or ultra-wide to wide (10-24mm) perspectives.  I never use anything from 28-80mm – don’t like it; don’t miss it.  Yes, I like other folks’ 35 and 50mm street work, but it doesn’t work for me.  If I had to live with ONE lens, it would be 85mm, but up to 150mm would also work. Oh, also, I process every image, ranging from 30 minutes to hours.  I’m open to any editorial change that improves the image to my eye, and I capture with the intent to process.  Post processing is at least half of the creative process for me.  Take all that as a huge grain of salt for my biases.  :)

75mm, ISO 200, f/4, 1/3200 sec.

Why should I consider any change at all when the D600 and my trio of brilliant lenses produce virtually as good of image quality as (almost) any camera ever produced?  Like many people, I’m frustrated by the challenge of having the gear with me.  Air travel is increasingly difficult and there are constant risks of having a bag snarfed and checked.  Family and other folks are just plain annoyed when I am “that guy,” lugging all that crap around.  Often it is just completely impractical to drag it out and there is no time to rush back when the moment arises.  You can’t leave it in cars.  You can’t leave it in hotel rooms.  What a pain (sometimes).  Naturally, I have been following mirrorless gear, but even more generally, EVERY camera sold today is “good enough.”  Cameras simply don’t matter technically – for what I do.  There are, however, practical advantages for some models that are available.

75mm, ISO 1250, f/5.6, 1/200th sec.

So, why not simplify to a cameraphone?  Simple for me – I don’t like a 30-50mm field of view.  The same problem rules out all the brilliant single focal length + large sensor models, x100*, Nikon A, and even limited normal FL zoom models like the RX100* and many others.  I borrowed an x100 from a friend, and we didn’t bond.  What about a Fuji X-E2 or X-T1?  Brilliant cameras; great lenses; OK files.  I assumed that an X-T1 was probably the best answer, except for a few things.  That gear isn’t all that small.  It is quite expensive (for the primes that I would want), there are no capturing advantages over my D600+primes, and the image quality pays a big, big price.

75mm, ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/320th sec.

Well, then what about Sony?  Brilliant sensors.  Choose 24 or 36 beautiful Sony sensor Mpixels.  Bodies are not too big.  But, now we’re back to lenses that are just as big and heavy as a full frame DSLR, and MUCH more expensive!  Also, the shooting experience isn’t an improvement; it is probably poorer (AF) that varies in capability with the lens and the shutters are loud and shocky.  IS is a hodge podge.  Did I mention the price?

75mm, ISO 125, f/2, 1/8000th sec.

That left m43.  For video, we all know how Panasonic stands, but that’s hardly important to me.  Earlier, the E-M10 had me curious…  Yes, I have to give up a lot of resolution and SNR, but the IBIS is getting interesting.  The prime choices and size/weight look pretty good.  E-M1 was obviously intriguing, but now you’re getting a little big and expensive.  Well, I’m not really serious…  When the E-M5 Mark ii came out, I really stood up and took note (like a lot of people!).  The improved IBIS greatly enhances the range of application and compensates for the crappy DR (and makes lazy-person’s video something to consider).  Also, for MY uses, the hokey image shifting high-res mode is appealing (studio, macro, architecture, and landscape).  High-res is not crucial, however.  I’m very comfortable with using panos to increase resolution.  WiFi that actually works (I’m looking at you, Nikon!) is a plus.

75mm, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/160th sec.
A typical subject for me - architectural details.  Dynamic range can be a big problem.  Resolution can usually be solved with panoramas.  The 40 Mpixel high res mode is quite promising for situations when I do have a tripod available, but the support requirements are pretty intense in my testing so far.

75mm, ISO 320, f/5.6, 1/160th sec.

I downloaded JPEGs and RAW files to process and compared them to Fuji files and the Nikon/Sony files that I know so well.  I was shocked to discover how much detail could be pulled out with careful sharpening and NR, and actually give the Olympus 16 Mpixel files an edge over Fuji.  Except for DR, the effective resolution is remarkably close to what I get from the D600 when pushed.  Obviously, I lose DR – but only when low ISO can be used, and the IBIS gives the E-M5 ii a couple of stops back in a lot of real situations.

Then I started evaluating lenses, and could not believe the quality, value, and size/weight of the Olympus f/1.8 primes (and the 12/2.0).  I fixated on the 12/2, 45/1.8, and 75/1.8.  Little did I know how much I would love the 75!  Oh to be able to carry around a 150mm f/1.8 on my D600, and all smaller than my fist!  At that focal length, even the wider DoF is actually a plus over full-frame for many purposes.

E-M5 Mark ii plus 45mm f/1.8 prime compared to D600 plus 85/1.8G prime.
This is a pretty fair comparison.  IBIS gives back some reduced ISO for better DR, but it does offer two stops less shallow DoF.

Still, could I produce good enough results to justify an addition or (GASP!) switch?  Life changes made small/light an even much higher priority for me, and with contemplation and support of my wife, I ordered the E-M5 ii, 12, 45, and 75.   [A couple of grrrrs for Olympus – why do I have to seek out lens hoods and BATTERIES?!?  Also, seriously, an L-bracket that blocks the flip-out screen?]

75mm, ISO 3200, f/1.8, 1/50th sec.
A shot that I never would take with my DSLR.  IBIS enabled it, and the shallow DoF worked well shooting through the chain link fence to give a dreamy quality.  I could probably have pulled this off with a DSLR and 70-200/4 at the long end, but I doubt that I could have kept it steady.

As everybody reports, whipping the settings into a usable state is annoying with Olympus’ bizarre, but flexible menus.  I quickly figured out that, yes, back button AF-ON works like it should.  And then I figured out that everything works exactly like it should – when AF does grab perfectly (as it almost always does), just grab the focus ring and focus peaking engages automatically for trivial MF better than any split prism SLR.  As a bonus, if you enable face detection, it remains quietly in the background, not interfering with normal single point AF, but then if it spots a face, it intervenes and focuses on the nearest eye (or several other options settable in the menus).  Brilliant!  The EVF is so fantastic and clear – and much more viewable to my eyes with glasses.  I flipped the display closed to protect the screen and haven’t looked at it in days.

75mm, ISO 3200, f/3.2, 1/4th sec.
Nope!  That's not going to be sharp.  Two more failed attempts, then steady my shooting stance, open up, and...

75mm, ISO 3200, f/1.8, 1/15th sec.
Usably sharp!  This is basically closeup with 150mm equivalent, a couple of feet away, and 1/15th sec.  Not bad!

Naturally, there are a few issues.  That front dial is pretty much useless since it is too easy to bump.  There’s also no real ideal solution for full manual modes with shutter, aperture, and ISO all instantly available.  Good enough, but not perfect.  I’ll take it for the size, but I will curse Olympus every time I accidentally apply -1.7 eV exposure compensation.  :)

I hit the streets with the 75/1.8, and that package is a revelation.  I feel so much less conspicuous and spontaneous with the small package (and quiet shutter).  It also looks like a toy camera, an impression aided by the silver color models that I selected for that reason (and because I think they look great!).  Nobody is coming up to either shame, embarrass, or implicitly threaten me with admiration of my big professional-looking lens.  So, for creating more image opportunities, the E-M5 ii has already proven to be a winner.

75mm, ISO 1000, f/1.8, 1/160th sec.

How about image quality?  Well, in good light (controlled contrast and enough), the files are fine, as expected.  I only walked around at night once, so the jury is still out.  I can say that the IBIS and f/1.8 did allow a couple of shots that I would simply not attempt with my DSLR gear, but IBIS isn’t a panacea.  With a wide angle lens, yes, you can handhold some fairly slow shots.  But forget about any fantasies of 75mm at 1/15^th of a second.  That’s not going to happen.  Of course, it wouldn’t have happened on my DSLR either, I probably wouldn’t have been carrying my 70-200/4,  and my 28 and 85mm primes had no IS at all, so I was trading away DR and working at ISO 6400 all the time with the D600.  On the whole, advantage E-M5 ii even for night street, so far.

12mm, ISO 200, f/2, 1/1000th sec.

While I originally expected to keep my DSLR gear and core lenses (selling off the exotics and less-used stuff to subsidize), I can honestly say that I’m now open to the idea of selling it all and adding a second smaller m43 body as a backup and even smaller travel camera.  As soon as the 20+ Mpixel improved Sony m43 sensor makes its way into a small body, I might go that route.  [It is also quite clear that m43 gear is not as reliable as Nikon/Canon DSLR pro gear, so a backup body would be prudent on any serious trip.]  I now don’t see a use case FOR ME where I would grab the Nikon gear; it isn’t enough better.  [Now, for the 800 lb. gorilla in the room, the financial survival of Olympus is also a very grave risk…]

75mm, ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/2000th sec.

My feeling is that there are great reasons to consider small/light mirrorless gear, but if you’re going to go small, GO SMALL.  I still don’t favor the in-between solutions from Fuji and Sony.  These files are good enough for most purposes, and I don’t think when they fall short, a Fuji is going to make the difference.  If I were doing pro work, I would add an MF body or at least a D810 (or A7r ii) with a couple of serious lenses.  I really can’t imagine most working photography jobs that couldn’t be handled with the 12-40/2.8 and 40-150/2.8 (as far as quality, but also probably for non-sports performance).  By the way, it even appears the Olympus off-camera TTL flash is a competitor, so event photographers might even be able to get away without Nikon/Canon i/eTTL…  That requirement alone rules out Fuji and Sony.

A few other samples...  I think this is a keeper!  :)

D. N. Knisely

500px Portfolio
Flickr
Ello

75mm, ISO 200, f/6.3, 1/1250th sec.

75mm, ISO 200, f/4, 1/500th sec.

75mm, ISO 3200, f/1.8, 1/30th sec.

75mm, ISO 1000, f/7.1, 1/160th sec.

75mm, ISO 400, f/2.2, 1/200th sec.

75mm, ISO 200, f/1.8, 1/640th sec.

75mm, ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/1000th sec.

75mm, ISO 200, f/1.8, 1/8000th sec.